My mother’s coconut sauce is a perfect match for this squash (coconut plays a dual role, masking the pungent chiles and thickening the sauce)—but her mother-in-law, if she were alive today, still wouldn’t approve.
Cut off and discard the stem and heel ends of the squash. Peel the squash with a vegetable peeler and cut it in half lengthwise. Scoop out the seeds and the surrounding spongy mass with a spoon or a melon baller, creating firm-fleshed, pale green squash “boats.” Cut the squash boats into 1-inch pieces and place them in a medium-size saucepan. Pour in