Boiled gammon is a standard dish at Downton at both lunch and dinner. Inevitably, large joints of meat didn’t always get eaten when first served, and that means recipes for using up ready-cooked meat would have been part of every cook’s repertoire. Refrigeration was slow to catch on in large houses, which often didn’t have electricity—Downton is very modern in this respect, as it has just been installed when the series opens—and so recipes such as this one were vital. Waste was frowned on, though peelings and other kitchen refuse that really couldn’t be eaten would have been fed to the pigs as swill. The idea that leftovers were something inferior, to be used up and annoying to store, is very modern: at Downton uneaten meat would have been looked at as an ingredient for another dish. This recipe is very simple and very effective and is representative of the lighter take on lunches characteristic of the 1920s. Serve with rice or a salad of bitter leaves, such as chicory or Belgian endive.