This recipe is from my friend Steve Wong’s family. His people, like so many other Chinese-Americans, grew up poor and cut off from their homeland, so they gradually adapted Western produce to southern Chinese cuisine. The ingredients they used were usually dictated by cost. Iceberg lettuce, a Californian staple, was inexpensive and filling. Its light, sweet flavour, faint green colour and versatility make it a perfect foil to Chinese cookery. Here it is combined with eggs t