Fricassée of quail with aubergine and leeks on toasted brioche with escargots in garlic cream and star anise jus

In my mind I have always associated quails with snails. Perhaps it’s because the words rhyme, but it’s more likely because when I was a child, on the farm where we spent holidays, there was a shrubbery where all the quails used to gather, and for some reason this area was always covered in snails as well. So I picture them together alive, but their flavours also complement each other – the snail is rich and earthy, the quail tender and delicate. I like to call this dish one of La Colombe’s