This simplest version of a baked apple, barely sugared and perfumed with a little Cognac, yields concentrated, caramelized juices. Look for local baking apples at your farmers’ market. Make sure they are all of the same size.
Put the apples in an earthenware baking dish. Fill each apple with sugar, then add a splash of Cognac to each one. Replace the stems and sprinkle sugar generously over the tops.
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