Menu Twenty

In praise of the braise: I was raised on brisket. The aroma of onions, bay, and beef broth—a sense memory that spans generations—filled my mother’s house on a weekly basis. And I suppose that explains why, to me, rare grilled beef is awfully good, but braised or boiled beef is always better. I’m so surprised when people say they don’t like stew. Stew employs the best of what cooking can do, and it can elevate the so-called lesser cuts to something glorious. After the initial and essential browning caramelizes the juices, the process of a long-simmered braise creates a succulent, complex sauce. Refrigerating the stew overnight only enhances those flavors. It’s just so much more interesting than steak.