Sour Tamarind Broth with Pork and Vegetables

To the cultural historian Doreen Gamboa Fernandez, sinigang was our archetypal dish, found everywhere from the humblest dulang (low hardwood table) to the elaborate feasts of the ilustrados (the educated elite). Above all, it is sour, and by sourness it is judged and loved: Does it bring a pucker to your mouth, or do you all-out flinch? (The calibration is up to you.)

What makes it sour is where the artistry comes in. Fernandez wrote, “The cook who sours with kalamansi or vin