Lumpia Shanghai

Lumpia are descendants of spring rolls, their name taken from the Hokkien spoken by early traders from southeastern China. They are party food, made for a crowd and often by one: As kids, we’d mob the kitchen counter and clash spoons as we reached for the bowl of filling, before carefully rolling up the delicate skins and sliding them into the waiting hot oil. Some might come filled with ubod, the crunchy heart cut from a coconut palm, or long green finger chiles stuffed with pork an