Spaghetti with bottarga

The Italian speciality bottarga is pressed and dried grey mullet roe (bottarga di muggine or boutargue in France, where it is also widely used), and it comes pre-grated or whole in a vacuum pack. It has an amazing rich, slightly salty and bitter flavour. It’s expensive, but so intense that a little goes a long way, and it serves as a good stand-by for quick lunches or suppers when you have nothing in your fridge. Although grey mullet isn’t a very highly regarded fish in its ow