Autumn in Umbria. The time of the year for the wine harvest and that gradual shift from warm sunny days to cool nights and crisp misty mornings. The time of hard work and anxiety to gather the harvest before the weather breaks and the time of great excitement because the Italians are potty about gathering wild mushrooms.
This dish is perfectly suited to autumn. Certainly, the headman from the Torgiano vineyards thought it splendid. You could serve it with fresh homemade pasta.