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4
Complex
By Rena Salaman
Published 2023
This winter speciality, revithia me hirino ke portokali, is a familiar dish in the Aegean islands, particularly in Crete. In the villages of Mesara, it is traditionally offered to family and close friends on the night before a wedding. This version comes from the island of Chios.
Drain the chickpeas, rinse them under cold water and drain them again. Place them in a large, heavy pan. Pour in enough cold water to cover generously, put a lid on the pan and bring to the boil. Skim the surface, replace the lid and cook gently for 1–1½ hours, depending on the age and pedigree of the chickpeas. Alternatively, cook them in a pressure cooker for 20 minutes under full pressure. W
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