Wedding Bread from Lefkas

THE TASTE, aroma and especially the shape of this bread from Lefkas, one of the smaller islands in the Ionian Sea, are remarkable. Like all festive breads, it is not supposed to be cut but pulled apart. Instead of being baked in a loaf, the dough is divided into pieces, with each one shaped into a twist and baked next to one another. As the dough rises, the twists come together but, once baked, they are easily pulled apart. Serve with fresh cheese such as ricotta, manouri or Gorgonzola, or