ONE OF THE TRUE TESTS of a good chef is his ability to make an excellent consommé. It should be crystal clear, full of flavor, yet not too salty, and it should have a lovely color ranging from light gold to deep amber. The process for making consommés is long and tedious, and it is rare to find them on restaurant menus today. If you do find one, you can be sure the chef is proud of it.
A classic consommé is made with a double-strength veal, beef, or chicken stock. This stock is furt