Marmite Dieppoise

Dieppois chefs, like their Breton colleagues in Nantes, have traditionally been partial to the spices brought back by merchant ships. But one chef has given a timely warning about over-seasoning fish: ‘Do not kill them a second time/ Instead of expensive sole and turbot, grey/striped mullet, monkfish or whiting may be used. If shrimps, scampi or scallops are not available, omit them and add more vegetables. The mussels, however, give vital character to the stew.