Huîtres au Sel Rose

Especially in coastal France, but also surprisingly far inland, oysters and most other shellfish are far easier to buy than here. We have neglected our own shellfish industry most disgracefully, with the result that the French and other Europeans rush our superb lobsters, crabs, oysters and mussels to their own northern regions.

In the south of France there is usually an inspiring array of fish (in the market of Arles I counted six varieties of oyster) of all kinds, many unrecogniza