Soupe de Poissons

How beautifully the spectrum of French fish soups reflects the changing degrees of latitude and the intensity of the light. Starting with Normandy, whose soup is palely gleaming, creamy with flashes of peach-shaded mussels, one then travels south to the freshwater matelotes of the Loire and onwards to lively, robustly flavoured soups, red-gold with tomato and saffron and eaten with rouille, the magnificent fiery-tasting, rust-coloured sauce of the Midi.

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