When eating in provincial France it is always interesting to see the influence of past and present chefs on today’s cooks. The volumes of Escoffier and Pellaprat, often lovingly covered in protective plastic or brown paper, still sit in the kitchens of restaurants and small hotels. But Troisgros, Bocuse and Guérard are now leaving their mark, at times quite openly on the menu, at others as a more subtle but pervasive presence in the cooking and presentation of the food.
In the small hotel in Carcès, where I have spent some happy times, Escoffier is revered – as this rich dish shows.
Cook the steak in the melted butter according to your preference. Flame with the brandy and transfer to a hot serving dish.
Add the Roquefort to the pan and stir until melted. Stir in the cream and allow the sauce to bubble and thicken. Season with
Spoon the sauce over the steak and serve with pureed potatoes.
© 1987 Geraldene Holt. All rights reserved.