Faux-filet au Roquefort

When eating in provincial France it is always interesting to see the influence of past and present chefs on today’s cooks. The volumes of Escoffier and Pellaprat, often lovingly covered in protective plastic or brown paper, still sit in the kitchens of restaurants and small hotels. But Troisgros, Bocuse and Guérard are now leaving their mark, at times quite openly on the menu, at others as a more subtle but pervasive presence in the cooking and presentation of the food.

In the small