This came about after I had cooked with Richard Blades at Simpsons for a program on Samuel Pepys. Richard had the idea of cooking a lamprey pie using a hot water crust made with rye flour, as this is more malleable than the wheat variety. My friend and butcher Colin Peat of Haddington found me a grouse so old I think it had died of arthritic shock. The end result has a most intense and extraordinary flavor, and is