Smoked Sockeye Salmon with Celery Root and Grainy Dijon

Sometimes it’s a very small shift that makes a dish seem new. I’ve loved shredded celery root remoulade salads for years, but when I visited Le Café de la Nouvelle Mairie, a favorite modern, but not too modern, wine bar near the Pantheon, they served a lovely hunk of mackerel atop a salad of celery root cut into thick ribbons, not shreds. The sturdier shape gave the salad more presence alongside the rich fish, and it just looked great, too, with a few slices of pickled onion placed jauntily