Steamed Lobster with Butter Sauce Two Ways

This is certainly one of life’s indulgences. As a small boy, I had a book with a picture of a lobster—I was terrified of it. It took me quite a few years before I could bring myself to eat one of those creatures. Boy, did I not know what I was missing! Then, when I ran a restaurant on Martha’s Vineyard with David Ricketts, I found I wasn’t so happy having to kill several dozen lobsters every night, to order.