1279 Baked goose eggs*

Gusinyja jajtsa pechenyja


  • 6 goose eggs
  • 2 spoons butter
  • 1 spoon grated roll
  • ¼ teaspoon mace
  • green onions
  • 3–4 chicken eggs


Drill holes in 6 eggs and empty out all the contents. Melt 2 spoons butter [in a skillet], pour on the eggs, and cook into thick scrambled eggs. Rub the scrambled eggs through a sieve and add 1 spoon grated roll, ¼ teaspoon mace, and 1 spoon finely chopped green onions. Stir in 3–4 [raw] chicken eggs, mix thoroughly, inject back into the shells with a fine hypodermic needle or syringe, and bake.

*This is a very unusual recipe for several reasons. For one thing, the technique is unwieldy, being both fussy and labor intensive. Molokhovets’ only other use for blown eggs was to fill the emptied shells with orange gelatin for dessert. Dishes featuring eggs as the main ingredient were uncommon in traditional Russian cuisine, although of course they were often used as a component of other dishes. Also, goose eggs are not mentioned elsewhere in the book. All these factors make it possible, but unlikely, that this is an old Russian recipe. Barbara Wheaton noted its resemblance to a medieval favorite, Oeufz rostis en la broche (quoted in Tirel, called Taillevent, Le Viandier, 68). The general antecedents of the Russian recipe are clear enough, but the exact source remains a puzzle since Molokhovets included it in the first edition of her book (1861), a good thirty years before Pichon and Vicaire published their edition of Le Viandier