Baby Radishes with Black Olive & Anchovy Aioli

While it is difficult to improve on the classic presentation of raw radishes with butter and sea salt, here a little bit of anchovy introduces an umami note that makes a remarkable contrast with the peppery young radish.

Make this when you stumble upon baby radishes so perfect that even separating the delicate tops from the bulbs seems like a crime. It’s gratifying to chomp down on the bulb and its greens in the same bite. Look for small radishes, 4 to 6 in [10 to 15 cm] long, with