Arkansas-Style Buttermilk Fried Chicken

This recipe comes from a blue-blooded farming family in Tuckerman, Arkansas, who are as well known for their political parties as for the rice and pecans they grow and the dishes they serve famous and humble guests alike. So renowned is this buttermilk fried chicken, in fact, that Hillary Clinton included it in The Clinton Presidential Center Cookbook. When I learned that the chicken is fried in covered skillets and turned over and over, I bolted, but