Basically a specialty of the Louisiana and Mississippi bayous, dirty rice, which derives its name and color from the chicken livers and gizzards that provide its rich, earthy, utterly compelling flavor, can be found today in homes, cafés, and even some pretty snazzy restaurants from West Virginia to Alabama to Georgia. Generally, the meats in the rice are limited to the chicken parts, but one of the most memorable versions I’ve ever had, which also included a little pork sausage, was at a delightful roadside café near Stuttgart, Arkansas. (And people seem to forget not only that much of the nation’s rice is produced in the northwestern lowlands of Arkansas, but also that Arkansas is the home of the giant Tyson chicken empire.) Dirty rice is usually served as a side dish, but it also makes a great main course served with a salad and Scallion Corn Sticks.
In a large, cast-iron skillet, break up the sausage, fry over moderate heat till thoroughly cooked, about 10 minutes, drain on paper towels, and drain all but about
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