Rognons de Veau

Tripe, brains, heart, kidneys, etc., are delicately alluded to in this country as “variety meats.” But I think most Americans would tend to agree that the English term, “offal,” is more accurate. Although most of them are good values, I’m convinced that the national aversion to “innards” will most likely resist them down to the last food stamp. (I must own that I’ve never been able to stomach tripe—not à la mode de Caen or anybody else’s mode.) However, I do think that anyone who at