For the pastry creams, bring the milk and half the sugar to a boil in a large nonaluminum saucepan. Whisk the egg yolks in a mixing bowl and beat in the remaining sugar. Sift in the flour and beat it in. Beat one-third of the boiling milk into the yolk mixture. Return the remaining milk to a boil and beat in the yolk mixture, continuing to beat until the pastry cream thickens and comes to a boil. Cook, beating, about 1 minute.
Remove the cream from the heat and divide between 2 bowls, pouring half the mixture into each. Stir the orange zest and vanilla into one and the chocolate and cinnamon into the other. Press plastic wrap against the surface of each and refrigerate until cold.
For the syrup, bring the sugar and water to a boil in a small pan with the cinnamon and cloves. Cool, remove the spices, and add the rum.
To assemble the zuppa inglese, cut the pan di spagna into vertical slices about
To finish the zuppa inglese, whip the cream until it holds its shape but is not too firm, and spread it on the top. Decorate with some chocolate shavings and the candied fruit. Keep the zuppa inglese in the refrigerator.
© 1990 Nick Malgieri. All rights reserved.