When I stayed with Manike and her family, I was surprised to find a coffee bush in their garden. Making kopi (coffee) the traditional way is incredibly labour-intensive. The ripe coffee beans are picked and left in the sun to dry for four days, then pounded in a huge mortar and pestle to remove the tough outer shells. The inner beans are then roasted in a wok over an open fire. Coriander seeds and black peppercorns are added at the end, releasing an incredible aroma, and th