A squab is a young pigeon, but for some unknown reason ‘squab pie’ is made of mutton and apples. It’s usually associated with Devon, Avis Crocombe’s home county, although there are a few recipes for a Kentish version. Both Kent and Devon were known for their apple orchards, mainly grown for cider production. Devonshire apple varieties included the wonderfully named Slack Ma Girdle, Fair Maid of Devon and Tremlett’s Bitter. The pie works best with old heritage apples, but a