Fresh Green Chili Sauce

In New Mexican restaurants, you are asked whether you want your chili sauce green or red, and New Mexicans opt for green. “Green means summer and red means winter,” my Indian friend Bea Tioux explains. Green chili is picked while young, therefore green, and it retains a fresh delicate flavor even when it is frozen or canned. Chilies are roasted to remove their tough outer skins so that even in a basic fresh chili sauce like this one, a salsa cruda, the chili has been precooked. If fr