Green Chilies with Cheese

The marriage of chili to cheese comes close, in an imperfect world, to an ideal coupling of the wild and the tame. Such coupling was not possible until the conquistadors brought milk animals—sheep, goats, and cows—to the New World. While stuffing pepper pods with cheese seems simple, hiding the pods in a soufflé batter puffed in deep fat is not. Avoid chilies rellenos con queso in any but the best restaurants because they require care in the making, the kind o