Gumbo Z’herbes

For vegetarians, this traditional Lenten meal should prick the appetite and win, according to local legend, as many friends as you put in greens, “z’herbes” in Cajun means les herbes, or greens, the way “z’aricots” or zydeco means les haricots or green beans. The more greens the better, according to the Picayune, which adds equal parts of the leaves of radish, turnip, mustard, spinach, watercress, parsley, young cabbage, and green-onion tops. Other greens you might cons