Virginia’s Barbecued Pork

“We used to call our place Buzzard’s Roost,” Virginia Ritter remembers of the farm in Allendale, “cause every thin would come collectin round—pigs and chickens and folks.” Also goats. “When Mama used to barbecue goats,” Virginia says, “she’d cut em up in slabs and cook em in big Aga pans and make the best barbecue goat you ever had. Up North I buys spareribs. You buy em packaged you get a lot of fat stuck under the bottom, so you get the man at the market to pick up your slab and you looks