“I hate to admit it,” Squeezer Ravenel says, “but we’ve got so many doves we’ve started popping out the breasts and discarding the rest.” A mourning dove yields but two good bites per breast, so you need a lot of doves. As with other game birds—quail, woodcock, wild duck—the breast is what you’re after, and to get the juicy goodness of it, you should either braise it very slow or fry it very fast. To remove dove breasts, split the bird down the back, peel off the skin cover
