Angel Biscuits

My major discovery about biscuit making in the South is that, first, the flour is different and, second, practice may not make perfect, but without practice, forget it. In Greensboro, I met up with Ella Barham, who’s been catering since the age of fourteen and who learned to cook from her mother and her grandmother, who had eleven children to cook for. Ella gave me a rundown on that cocktail staple of the South, ham biscuits. Ham biscuits are short biscuits, small as a quar