Dr. Sylvester Graham’s name was so strongly associated with the flour we now call “all-bran” that his name became attached to breads, crackers, muffins, or gems. The evolution of the gem pan from muffin hoops is as curiously Anglo-American as the evolution of Graham’s flour from English “wholemeal” flour. Originally, the batter for muffins was leavened with yeast, as Hannah Glasse makes clear in her 1796 recipe “To make Muffins a
