Hot-Smoked Salmon with Berry Dip

Richard Donley, Jr., is a blue-eyed Scotch-Irishman whose dad built his own smoker by the West Village Highway in Meredith, an hour south of Seattle, and called it “The Caveman.” “When we opened fifteen years ago,” Richard said, “we served smoked chicken and smoked beef and French dip.” Since I had never heard of French dip, I asked what it was. “French dip is a beef sandwich you dip in a spiced bouillon sauce or it’s a smoked salmon sandwich you dip in a spiced fish stock with lemon peel.”