Marinated Tuna

“You can’t believe how good marinated tuna is,” says Stuart Driver. “Just get a whole tuna and fillet it—say a ten-pound fish. You can quarter, peel off the spine, and cut in chunks.” Out West they call dark tuna “yellowfin” and white, “albacore.” You can use either kind for this dish because the teriyaki marinade darkens the meat while flavoring it.

Americans on both coasts are rediscovering fresh tuna—a fish too long known only in a tin as “chicken of the sea,” as if that were a r