Swedish-Astoria Crayfish

“Here’ Egil Unander says in his Astoria kitchen, “is my Swedish Bible.” He lugs to the table a book as large in proportion to other books as he to other men. “The title means The Big Cookbook—twenty-fourth edition, 335,000 copies sold—it has everything, an encyclopedia, only in Swedish of course.” Egil, looking for crayfish, is waylaid by Johnson’s Temptation, a concoction of onions, matchstick potatoes, and Swedish anchovies layered