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By Jeremy Round

Published 1988

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More than just a gutsy Provençal dip. This dark, piquant paste can be eaten spread on hard-boiled eggs (quail if you’re feeling flash), with strips of raw vegetable, hunks of French bread and so on as a starter. It can be made hours beforehand and keeps for days in the fridge, so goes well before main courses which require last minute fuss.

Recipes vary wildly. My first introduction was the version from Irene Canning, chef/proprietor of Gibson’s restaurant in Cardiff, published in <