Dishes of sautéed peppers and tomatoes scrambled together with eggs are common to many parts of southern Europe and the Mediterranean. The French-Basque version, pipérade, includes onion, but I prefer this Turkish menemen, which doesn’t.
A popular quick meal at any time of the day, it is most commonly prepared in a double-handled metal skillet, to order, in small restaurants and pastry shops all over the country. The best peppers to use are long and pale with thin, moderately hot-tasting flesh (they are called sivri biber if you should happen to live near a Turkish store). Alternatives in this country are milder green chillies or a mixture of ordinary sweet green pepper and hot green chillies to your own pain threshold. Don’t even think of making this if you only have canned tomatoes.
Heat butter in a small frying pan. Add tomatoes and pepper and cook for 5-6 minutes over a medium flame, until the tomato has dried out a bit and the pepper relaxed. Sprinkle generously with salt.
Turn down the heat and stir in the beaten eggs. Keep stirring until they are almost cooked through but still creamy. Serve at once, with warm white bread to mop up the juices.
© 1988 Jeremy Round estate, represented by AM Heath. All rights reserved.