When I first read a recipe for this Lombardian sauce, I wondered about it. Would the fennel flavor penetrate the meat? What holds the sauce together? When I cooked it, I discovered that it is more of a stew than a sauce, with tiny pieces of meat that become tender, but do not break down. The fennel truly does perfume the meat, and the additional butter rounds out the pan juices.
In a large saucepan with a tight-fitting lid, melt
Stir the remaining
The best choice is a wine from the Valtellina, such as a Nebbiolo DOC from Rainoldi or Negri. In its absence, stay with the grape and pour a Ghemme or Gattinara from the Piedmont. Dessilani and Nervi are reliable producers.
© 2004 Joyce Goldstein. All rights reserved.