Tocco alla genovese

Tocco is Genoese dialect for “sauce,” and the ample use of dried porcini, which adds an earthiness and depth of flavor, is a signature of this classic Genoese sugo. Here, you have two options: you can make the sauce with large pieces of meat, remove them, and use them for another course, or you can make it in the manner of ragù alla bolognese, with chopped meat. In the old days, a tocco was typically prepared with beef marrow for extra richness. Today, it is not