For me, one of life’s great privileges is to have this jar of liver in the fridge.
It is argued, quite rightly, that this conserve of fattened goose or duck liver could age for two years or more, but does anyone have that kind of discipline? I can see cooking this in November for Christmas or New Year’s, but that’s about the limit of my inner fortitude.
Goose liver is easier to cook (it does not fall apart or melt as easily), but duck is much easier to get and less expensive. So take your pick.
You will need a glass canning jar just large enough to hold the liver.
Rinse the liver under cold water and pat dry. Gently pull the two lobes apart and, cutting and pulling, get rid of any tendons, veins, or green parts on the inside surfaces.
Put the liver in a bowl and pat the salt around it. Cover and refrigerate for 6 hours.
Rinse off all the marinade in cold water. Dry the livers and put the truffles between the two lobes and push the lobes together.
Sterilize the jar in boiling water. When it is cool, put the liver inside, stuffing it in if necessary. Add the Armagnac and tarragon.
Seal the jar and put it in a pot of water that is heated to 160 degrees, the water coming all the way up the jar (this is controversial: the French say 70 degrees Celsius, or 150 degrees Fahrenheit, and the Americans say 160–185 degrees Fahrenheit). Cook without boiling for 1½ hours. Remove, let cool, and store in the refrigerator.
© 2002 Jeremiah Tower. All rights reserved.