When James Beard would drill into his socialite students in San Francisco the importance of searing (sealing) meat before braising it, he would also ask, “Why do all that browning with the fat spitting everywhere when you can broil it?” He’s right, of course, especially when it comes to veal, which spits like crazy, burning uncovered arms.
With the broiling method, however, one needs a very rich stock, since there are no wonderful caramelized bits stuck to the bottom of the browning pan to enrich the braising liquid and later the sauce. Serve with the oven-roasted vegetables.
Put the thyme, orange zest, and garlic in a small mixing bowl and mix together. Rub the marinade mixture into the ribs. Cover and marinate at least 4 hours in the refrigerator. Take out and let come to room temperature before cooking.
Remove the ribs, then put in a bowl and cover with a wet towel. Strain the braising liquid into a saucepan and simmer over low heat, slightly off to the side of the burner, skimming off any fat and scum that rises to the top, as explained on page 30.
Keep cleaning the liquid and reduce it to half its original volume. Take off the heat, and pour over the ribs. Let the ribs sit in this sauce overnight if possible (refrigerated), otherwise, let them stay in this sauce until ready to reheat and serve on heated plates.
Put pinches of salt and pepper in a small mixing bowl, whisk in the sherry vinegar, and then the zest, tarragon, and oil. Add the parsley leaves and dress them. Put the hot ribs on hot plates, put parsley salad in center of ribs, and pass the jasmine oil to drizzle over it all.
Finish the sauce with a puree of fried boletus mushrooms (use
© 2002 Jeremiah Tower. All rights reserved.