Truly one of the glories of the Austro-Hungarian kitchen, apple strudel deserves its place of honor. Use the hardest, tartest apples you can find—the farmers’ market may hold some unknown treasures. My strudel mentors told me “the uglier the apple, the better the strudel.” At any rate, choose apples that will hold their shape during baking, such as Golden Delicious or Pippin, and avoid those that fall apart when cooked, such as
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