Hungarian Walnut Roulades

Christmas is the time for beigli; the nut-filled roulades are sold in every bakery in Budapest. Like Vienna’s Faschingkrapfen, what used to be a holiday treat can now be found year-round, but they are still considered a special treat. And like our fruitcake, there are very good ones and not so good ones, and some fresh or not so fresh, so they can be the butt of Hungarian jokes. But a first-class beigli, with its firm but tender crust, crackled exterior, and moist filling, is a delig