‘Oh God,’ I thought, when I heard this was appearing for lunch. It was our first day at a villa in Sicily, and the first thing we tried from our Tunisian cook, Naima. Lemon risotto sounded all wrong: both over-sweet and cloying. What appeared was a dish so perfect that we ate in stunned silence. That the rice was cooked perfectly was a given (she was a magical cook), but the lemon just sharpened the edges, lifted the dish up, while a touch of chilli gave heat. After devouri