Kipper Pâté

The only problem with grilling a kipper, anointed with a fat flake of butter, is that the fishy tang tends to linger. My late stepmother Rose used to implore my father to poach them instead. ‘Not a chance,’ he’d reply. ‘Totally different taste.’ A good kipper is a grand thing indeed, but for those of a more delicate constitution this classic kipper pâté is unbeatable.