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By Tom Parker Bowles

Published 2013

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Some of the sweetest meat comes from the cow’s tail; wobbling, slightly gelatinous chunks that are the very essence of proper winter food. This is the hale and hearty made flesh. As with so many once-cheap ingredients (pork belly, lamb shanks, pig’s cheek), they become trendy, get a taste for Balenciaga and the price rockets. Still, this is a rich, serious dish, spiked with a touch of chilli and mustard, that’s best served slopped all over buttery mashed potatoes. Once cooked, leave it in t