Italians market not as a chore, but for the pleasure of it, and like all social pleasures, it establishes an immediate relationship between those engaged in a similar pursuit. I was traveling in Piedmont, browsing in one of Alba’s marvelous food shops, and soon I was having a warm conversation about cooking with a woman who was there to decide what to make for dinner. When she decided on a rabbit, of course I had to know how she was going to use it.
After she good-naturedly explained the procedure in that shorthand that Italian cooks use, ignoring measurements and taking the basics for granted, she added, “I doubt you’ll find rabbit done this way in any of the restaurants you are going to. My mother was the only one I knew who made it and she got it from her mother.” It’s a lovely, homey dish; the meat stays very juicy; and the peppers practically dissolve, turning into sauce for the rabbit.
© 1997 Marcella Hazan estate. All rights reserved.